Lamu is a small island off Kenya's north coast whose Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001, is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa. There are almost no cars: you get around on foot, by donkey and by dhow. It suits travellers who want culture, slow days, sunset dhow sails and a long empty beach at Shela, rather than a big resort. Fly from Nairobi to Manda Island (about 1.5 hours), then cross by boat. Stay 3–5 nights after your safari, and check current travel advice before you book.
Why Lamu is different
Most beach stays after a safari are about the sea. Lamu is about the town. Its Old Town has been lived in for more than 700 years, and Swahili life here still follows rhythms that have disappeared from most of the coast: the call to prayer over coral-stone rooftops, carved wooden doors, donkeys carrying building stone, and dhows under sail in the channel. Lamu has no traffic, no high-rise hotels and very little hurry. For many of our guests it is the most memorable part of a Kenya trip.
Lamu Old Town: what to see
UNESCO describes Lamu Old Town as the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa, built in coral stone and mangrove timber. Its narrow streets were made for walking, and the best way to see it is with a local guide, who can open doors and explain the history.
- The waterfront: the town's living room, where dhows load and unload and people gather in the evening.
- Lamu Fort: a large fort completed in the early 19th century in the main square, now part of the National Museums of Kenya.
- Lamu Museum: on the waterfront, with displays on Swahili culture, the dhow trade and the famous ceremonial horns.
- Swahili House Museum: a restored traditional house showing how Lamu families lived.
- German Post Office Museum: a reminder of the brief German presence on the coast in the late 19th century.
- Carved doors and mosques: Lamu's wooden doors are works of art, and the town has many mosques, including the Riyadha Mosque, the heart of the Maulidi festival.
- The Donkey Sanctuary: donkeys are Lamu's main transport, and the sanctuary looks after their welfare.
Shela, the beach village
About 3 km from the Old Town, reached by a short boat ride or a walk along the shore, Shela is a quieter village of whitewashed houses and guesthouses, with the archipelago's best beach: a long sweep of sand backed by dunes, where you can walk for kilometres. Many visitors stay in Shela and take boats into town. Swim with care: currents can be strong in places, so ask locally where it is safe.
Manda, Pate and the wider archipelago
- Manda Island: across the channel, home to the airport, quiet beaches and the Takwa ruins, the remains of a Swahili town abandoned centuries ago.
- Matondoni: a village on Lamu Island known for traditional dhow building.
- Pate Island: further north, with ancient Swahili towns such as Siyu and Pate; a full-day boat trip.
- Kiwayu and the outer islands: remote beaches and coral, best visited with an experienced local operator, and only when current travel advice allows.
Things to do on Lamu
- Sunset dhow sail: the classic Lamu evening, often with fresh seafood grilled on board.
- Walking tour of the Old Town with a licensed guide.
- Snorkelling and fishing trips around the archipelago's reefs and channels.
- Swahili cooking: learn coastal dishes; our East African food guide introduces the cuisine.
- Beach days at Shela and dune walks.
- Visiting the Takwa ruins on Manda by boat.
- Doing nothing: a rooftop, a book and the call to prayer at dusk. Lamu rewards slowing down.
Learn a few words before you go; our Swahili phrases for travellers covers the essentials. Lamu's Swahili has its own dialect, Kiamu.
Festivals
- Lamu Cultural Festival: usually held in November, with dhow races, donkey races, Swahili poetry, music and crafts.
- Maulidi: the celebration of the Prophet's birthday, one of the most important religious festivals on the coast, drawing pilgrims from across the region. Dates follow the Islamic calendar and move each year.
Accommodation fills up during festivals, so book early if your dates coincide.
Best time to visit
- December to March: hot, mostly dry, with calm seas: peak beach season.
- July to October: drier and slightly cooler, but the south-east monsoon can make the sea choppier.
- April to June: the long rains; humid, with heavy showers. Some smaller hotels close for part of this period.
Getting there
Scheduled flights link Nairobi with Manda Island's airport in about 1.5 hours, and there are also flights from Mombasa and Malindi. From Manda, a short boat ride across the channel takes you to the Lamu waterfront or to Shela; your hotel will usually arrange it. Light aircraft have luggage limits, so travel with a soft bag (see safari luggage weight limits).
Most of our guests fly to Lamu straight from their last safari camp, connecting through Nairobi. For entry requirements, see our Kenya eTA guide.
Where to stay
- Lamu Old Town: restored Swahili houses and rooftop guesthouses, for atmosphere and walking access to everything.
- Shela: boutique hotels and private houses near the beach; the most popular choice for a relaxed stay.
- Manda Island: a handful of quiet beach retreats across the channel.
Many properties are small and full of character rather than large resorts, so expect individual style rather than standard hotel amenities.
Safety and travel advice
Lamu Island has a long, peaceful history with visitors, but Lamu County as a whole borders areas with security concerns, and some governments, including the UK, advise against travel to parts of the mainland of Lamu County. Lamu Island and Manda Island have generally been treated differently in that advice. Conditions change, so check your government's current travel advice before you book, and travel with an experienced operator. Our East Africa safety guide explains how we assess risk.
Dress and etiquette
- Lamu is a conservative Muslim town. In the Old Town, cover shoulders and knees; swimwear is for the beach only.
- Ask before photographing people, especially women.
- During Ramadan, avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight in the town.
- Greet people before asking questions: a simple "Jambo" or "Salaam aleikum" goes a long way.
Lamu vs Diani vs Zanzibar
| Lamu | Diani | Zanzibar | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Best for | Culture, history, slow travel | Classic beach resort holiday | Beach plus Stone Town culture |
| Cars | Almost none | Yes | Yes |
| Beach | Long, wild Shela beach | Long white-sand resort beach | Many beaches, strong tides on the east coast |
| Accommodation | Boutique houses and guesthouses | Resorts and villas | Every type |
| From a Kenya safari | Short flight via Nairobi | Short flight to Ukunda or via Mombasa | Short flight from Nairobi |
Compare Kenya's other coast options in Kenya safari and beach holidays, or see adding Zanzibar to your safari. For the safari half of your trip, start with our Kenya safari guide.